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The live class took place January 23-24, 2021 at High Roller Chassis in Woodstock, Alabama.
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Course curriculum

  • 1

    Welcome

    • Racelogic Street Stock Chassis Workbook

    • 0-0 Instructor Introductions

  • 2

    Front Suspension

    • 1-1 Squaring the Front End

    • 1-2 Car Won't Turn to Center

    • 1-3 Ball Joints

    • 1-4 Checking Stock Spindles

    • 1-5 Lower Control Arms

    • 1-6 Upper Mounting Points

    • 1-7 Caster Gains

    • 1-8 Measuring in Dynamics

    • 1-9 Using Photographs

    • 1-10 Chassis Set Up Plates and Travel Indicators

    • 1-11 Checking Lower Control Arms

    • 1-12 Correcting Lower Control Arms

    • 1-13 Camaro Chevelle Metric

    • 1-14 Lowers on Crown Vic

    • 1-15 Track Width

    • 1-16 Checking A-frames

    • 1-17 Importance of Right Front

    • 1-18 Squaring the Front as a Starting Point

    • 1-19 Using Plumb Bobs

    • 1-20 Pin Inclination and Negative Caster

    • 1-21 Measuring Tire Flex

    • 1-22 Wheel Spacing

    • 1-23 Camber and Tire Temps

    • 1-24 Rollover Tire Pressure

    • 1-25 Servo - Caster - Go Karts

    • 1-26 Ackerman

    • 1-27 Tow and Steering Wheel Input

    • 1-28 Drag Link

    • 1-29 Idler Arm

    • 1-30 Steering and Frame Migration

    • 1-31 Process for Using Chassis Set Up Plates

    • 1-32 Setting Tow Per Wheel

    • 1-33 Scrub Radius

    • 1-34 Adjustable Idler Arms

    • 1-35 Antidive

    • 1-36 Setting Tow Dynamic - Static

    • 1-37 Caster Number

    • 1-38 Game Plan for Testing

    • 1-39 Follow up on Ackerman

    • 1-40 Antidive and Prodive Adjustments

    • 1-41 Ball Joints

    • 1-43 Bristol Tips-

    • 1-44 Bearing Issues

    • 1-42 Correct Way to Install Bearing Spacers

  • 3

    Safety

    • 2-1 Seats and Seatbelts

    • 2-2 Helmets

    • 2-3 Fire Suppression

    • 2-4 Carbon Fiber Seats

    • 2-5 Fuel Cell Vents and Rollover Plates

    • 2-6 Firesuits

    • 2-7 Head & Neck Restraint - Escape Plan

  • 4

    Shocks

    • 3-0 Racelogic 2021 Street Stock Shock Info

    • 3-1 Types of Shocks

    • 3-2 Twin Tube Shocks

    • 3-3 Working with a Shock Builder

    • 3-4 Monotube Shocks

    • 3-5 Preventing Leaks - Checking Gas Pressures

    • 3-6 Emulsion - Air Shocks

    • 3-7 Shock Valving

    • 3-8 Reading Graphs

    • 3-9 Shock Piston Options-

    • 3-10 Driver Preferences

    • 3-11 Shock Dyno Graphs

    • 3-12 Reading Graphs

    • 3-13 Reading Graphs - part 2

    • 3-14 Determining a Shock Build

    • 3-15 Graphs Can Be Deceiving

    • 3-16 Where to Start

    • 3-17 Cavitation

    • 3-18 Hysteresis

    • 3-19 Adjusters

    • 3-20 Brands and Pricing

    • 3-21 Changing Zero Point

    • 3-22 Shaft Diameter

    • 3-23 Tuning Shock to Spring

    • 3-24 Shock Maintenance

    • 3-25 What Pictures Can Tell You About Your Car

    • 3-26 Aerodynamics

    • 3-27 Data Acquisition

  • 5

    Q&A Follow Up from Day 1

    • 4-2 Jack Bolts and Air Gap

    • 4-1 Too Much Tire Pressure

  • 6

    Brakes

    • 5-1 Brake Pedals - Brake Bias

    • 5-2 Master Cylinders

    • 5-3 Brake Maintenance

    • 5-4 Counting Rounds

    • 5-5 Brake Pad Compounds

    • 5-6 Brake Pedal Ratio

    • 5-7 Spacers and Calipers

    • 5-8 Brake Fluids

    • 5-9 Bleeding Brakes

    • 5-10 Brake Bias Gauges

    • 5-11 Setting Up Brakes on a New Car

    • 5-12 Rotors

    • 5-13 Bleeding Steering Box

    • 5-14 3-4 vs 1 Master Cylinder

  • 7

    Cooling

    • 6-1 Cooling Tips

    • 6-2 Single vs Double vs Triple Pass Radiators

    • 6-3 Water Restrictors

    • 6-4 Gauges

  • 8

    Chassis Set up

    • 7-1 Chassis Set Up part 1

    • 7-2 Chassis Setup part 2

    • 7-3 Chassis Set up part 3

    • 7-4 Chassis Set up part 4

  • 9

    Spring Smasher

    • 8-1 Spring Rater part 1

    • 8-2 Spring Rater part 2

  • 10

    Bonus

    • Checking for a Bent Rear End Tube

    • Setting Bump Steer

    • Setting Caster and Camber

    • Checking Tape Measures

    • Checking if the Rear End is Straight

    • Squaring Your Steering